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Whenever compiling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, nestled prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. The honour has made the family totally astonished.

“I’m completely shocked,” states the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest place earning such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning outside its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this culinary honour.